Without equal emphasis on sush

 Sushi Ginger The fish was faultless. Whether in nigiri, sashimi or maki rolls,the high-quality fish was the perfect temperature - cool but notchilly - and was sliced neither too thick nor too thin. If you like fish without embellishments, sashimi (15-piece, $25;21-piece, $35; 30-piece seasonal specialties, $95) is pristine. The spider roll ($9), soft shell crab, cucumber, avocado, romaineand eel sauce, crackled with each bite while a fresh crab saladupdated an Alaskan roll ($13) with avocado, salmon, lemon and ponzusauce. The most expensive maki roll is $17. Save some money and trythis Thursdays from 8 to 10 p.m. when selected maki rolls andappetizers are half price. Some rolls need work. The spicy tuna roll ($8) wasn't spicy, theegg ( tamago ) nigiri ($2) was overly sweet and the salmon skin ($5) was limp. A serving of creamy sea urchin ( uni ) ($3.25) almost made up for those minor flaws. Perhaps only in Utah would a Japanese restaurant offer bananasfoster ($7), chocolate cake ($7) and New York-style cheesecake ($7)alongside mochi ice cream ($5.95) for dessert. The bananas fosterwas delicious and decadent - unlike the freezer-burned vanillamochi. Same name, different experience A dinner at the Mikado Cottonwood was the opposite of ourexperience at the soon-to-be Naked Fish. Our server was friendly,accommodating and knowledgeable, outshining the food, which wasgood but not excellent. Slices of sashimi (15-piece, $24.95; 20-piece, $31.95) were toothick and a touch too cold, making them bland-tasting. A lighterhand would have saved Tosh's prawns ($7.95), five well-cookedshrimp drowned in a thick citrusy aioli. Other dishes were much better. "Asian fries" ($3.95) were a uniquestarter: mashed ginger potatoes are wrapped in flour skins anddeep-fried. Shrimp tempura ($16.95) and assorted vegetables werepiping hot and crispy. Fluffy egg ( tamago ) nigiri ($2.50) had just a hint of sweetness, and a salmon skinhandroll ($6.25), chockfull of crackling salmon skin strips, diakonsprouts, refreshing cucumber and burdock root, was good enough towant another. At lunchtime, bento boxes ($11.95) and the lunch combination($14.95, tuna sashimi, nigiri sushi, California roll, fruit, shrimptempura, beef teriyaki, soup, rice and salad) cost slightly more than when The Tribune visited in 2003. On Mondays and Tuesdays maki rolls are half-offduring lunch and from 5 to 7 p.m., selected sushi rolls andappetizers are discounted. For dessert, there are interesting ice cream flavors, such as theroasted banana, ginger and chai (all $5.95). If you must indulge inchocolate, the sweet caramel brownie ($6.95) hits the spot. As the downtown Mikado morphs into Naked Fish and the CottonwoodMikado branches out and adds locations in Sandy and Bountiful, Ihope both owners remember that a great dining experience is acombination of great food and a well-trained staff.